Photos of Coastal British Columbia-2015
Each of the 3 photos below is the cover of a photo album. You double click on the link below the photo and it takes you to that album. If you are also interested in reading about the trip, it begins after the photos.
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#3 Album
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  Canada's British Columbia
Vancouver Island and The Sunshine Coast
Sara and I headed for Canada to explore Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast. We gave ourselves two-plus weeks so that we would have time to fully experience Canadian Hospitality.
Leaving Portland we cruised through Seattle, wanting to savor Bellingham’s historic district. It’s colorful and old, filled with interesting retail and restaurant choices.
  The next morning we were off early. We arrived at the border and Sara easily crossed with her new Polish Passport. Customs asked how many guns we were carrying and we respectfully told them we were unarmed. I know that not packing is very un-American, but Canada welcomed us anyway.
The City of Glass
 
Within an hour we were in downtown Vancouver. It’s a gorgeous city and we wanted to stay in the center where we could walk everywhere. We found a hotel online that offered precious parking. Stanley Park and Chinatown were only minutes away.
 
Upon arrival, our hotel upgraded us to a luxurious room on the 28th floor with a nearly 270 degree view. We were convinced that we must have won the lottery. It included a view of the expansive English Bay, full of racing yachts and container vessels from around the world.
   Stanley Park, the Lions Gate Bridge with the mountains of Whistler directly behind, formed the perfect backdrop to the cityscape below. We had several huge balconies, an impressive living room with kitchen, fluffy white robes and huge bottles of designer body lotion. We felt like giddy country folk visiting a wealthy, distant Auntie. What’s not to love about the diverse cultural richness of Vancouver situated by the ocean, surrounded by mountains and primal forest.      
The modern architecture with its imposing glass facades was colorful and thoughtfully designed to integrate with the historic urban landscape. Ethnic restaurants with spicy, exotic offerings were in abundance and reflected the recent migration of the wealthy from SE Asia. These immigrants have had a noticeable influence on Canadian hospitality as well as the food, arts, and regional design.
 
Our timing was off for milongas and dancing. We would plan better for Victoria, arriving on a Thursday in order to enjoy any weekend tango activity. It wasn’t that we were short on things to do, but it’s always fun to connect with local tango communities as we travel. Many Canadian dancers visit the Buenos Aires milongas and Portland Festivals, so we expected to see a few familiar faces.
The Route
Our circular route included 5 ferries that shuttled us in style past many small heavily forested islands. Our adventure was to experience wild British Columbia; small towns perched above the water in contrast to thriving population centers, such as Vancouver and Victoria.
   
We left Vancouver for the ferry at Horseshoe Bay. It would transport us to Langsdale on the lower section of the Sunshine coast. We would take one more ferry in order to reach Powell River and Lund, both located on the upper section. Given the natural geography of the coastline as well as lying in the rain shadow of Vancouver Island, it was easy to understand how the weather could be so ideal. There are over 325 frost-free days per year and over 215 days of sunshine. There is rain but below average for the surrounding coast.
From Powell River we crossed over to Lomox on Vancouver Island and slowly worked our way South to Victoria. We returned to the mainland by car ferry, passing through the beautiful, sparsely populated Canadian Gulf Islands. The terminal is located below Vancouver and only a short drive to the US Border.
Once we crossed back into the USA, we headed for La Connor, Washington, an idyllic village with many historic buildings and a brand new waterfront boardwalk perched above the Swinomish Channel. This is a fertile delta region, close to Anacortes, a major gateway to the San Juan Island ferry system. Nearby is Deception Pass crossed by an extremely high two lane bridge with spectacular views. It is considered a scenic wonder of the Pacific Northwest. You can walk across it, though challenging to do without hyperventilating.  
The bridge connects Fidalgo Island with enchanting Whidbey Island. There are several historic coastal towns worth exploring. There are many small farms and artists thrive here.
From Whidbey via Ferry we crossed to Port Townsend. The road continues onward, twisting and winding through forests with pristine lakes to Olympia, the capitol of Washington State. From Olympia in 2 hours time you can reach Portland.
The Sunshine Coast
The lower Sunshine Coast is simply gorgeous. There are many small villages by the water’s edge, with an abundance of beaches, both sandy and rocky for walking and collecting colorful stones. With low tides of 15 ft. more shoreline avails itself for gathering shellfish or exploring marine life in tide pools.
       
This is truly the land of boats. In the past I’ve explored much of this area, camping and touring in my Inflatable Zodiac. I reminisce the water connection and exploration of inland fjords with steep forested cliffs, absent of any human footprint, other than an occasional fishing boat from a nearby Indian village.
This trip I’ve discovered much on land worthy of a second moment. It’s where the land meets the sea that holds me spellbound to the natural order of life and my place in it. This time I look out at the sea with the same wonder that captures my attention as I looked from the sea toward land.
Some people swim in these waters. They are surprisingly warmer, 64F Degrees in the Summer, than the waters off the open Oregon Coast, 50Fdegrees in the Summer. Here the waters are protected by Vancouver Island, remaining relatively still during the summer months, daily warming up with the sun as it travels its most Northerly path.
      
Hopefully my photos capture some of the feeling of expansiveness, tranquility, isolation, natural beauty, and cultural diversity of Coastal British Columbia.
The End of The Road
Our destination on the Sunshine Coast was to reach the beginning of Highway 101 or mile zero, in Lund. It’s a quaint fishing village and the entry point for kayaks and boats headed up to Desolation Sound.
    
The draw of Desolation Sound is the mountainous peaks that erupt from its shoreline as well as the tepid tidal waters that are more or less trapped between the abundant islands and inlets. Temperatures over 74 degrees F are not unusual from Mid June to October.
20 years ago there were no tours offered even though Desolation Sound was a Destination for luxury yachts. The Zodiac allowed me to explore the area, its hidden lakes, beaches, and waterfalls. I remember one time pulling up to a beach with a 45 ft ketch anchored in front. A small dingy of crew arrived, admiring my Zodiac, and inquiring to where my yacht was moored. I fibbed saying that I was anchored a couple of islands North as no one at that time was kayak camping these isolated islands, a couple of hours from Lund. Visitors would sleep and dine in regal comfort on enormous diesel driven luxury yachts. I’d never seen so many multiple story motor yachts over 70 ft. Their annual operating costs were probably close to 10% of their value. They might guzzle fuel at a rate of 2 to 5 gallons per nautical mile. This was their playground and no moorage fees.
Coastal Highway 101 begins in Lund and reaches South, following the Pacific Coast through Washington, Oregon, and California. It then continues onward through Central America to the Darien Gap, a no mans land, separating Panama from Colombia.
There are no roads, only forbidding jungle and donkey trails used by smugglers and the occasional intrepid traveler. Sometimes free spirited, financially backed adventurer will come through, sporting a couple of 4 wheel drives, one to rescue the other, if needed. Today you can travel Highway 101 by car to Panama, then ship it by ferry to Cartagena.
Highway 101 though labeled differently continues through Colombia, crossing the tail of Andes, and then snakes onward through Ecuador, and back again to the Pacific Coast s passing through Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.
The highway is more user-friendly as it detours in blacktop across the Andes from Santiago to Buenos Aires. From there it hugs the Atlantic shoreline through the expansiveness of Patagonia all the way to the tip of South America in Tierra Del Fuego. There you can stand with the Penguins, instead of the Whales and Sea Otters around Lund. It’s the end of the road, only dirt track and open sea. The next stop, accessible by boat, is Antarctica.
Back in the seventies a dirt track was constructed connecting lower Chile with Puerto Montt. In the nineties I traveled this section, hitching rides in the back of open trucks. We would help pay for gas which was very expensive in this remote part of the world.
The road as it nears Torres Del Paine cuts over the Andes and connects with the main paved road running the length of Patagonia in Argentina. That rode still hovers above the sea on the Atlantic side where most of the towns are located.
I have traveled the entirety of Highway 101 though I never crossed the Darian Gap. Instead I flew to the San Andreas Islands and then to Cartenga where I picked up the road again.
The Highway has many different numbers and names as it meanders mainly along the Pacific Coast South spanning 2 continents. Highway 101 is not to be confused with references to the Pan American Highway system. In reality any major highway that connects one country to another today and allows you to cross by foot, bike, or car North and South America would be considered a section of the Pan American Highway System. Roads get improved, new ones are built, and you are able to move more quickly between point A and point B. But the romantic notion of a coastal highway stretching North to South, Canada to Argentina is what captured my attention. So now you understand the historical significance of our visit to Lund, Zero KM on Highway 101 and why it was a destination for us.
The Skookumchuck Rapids
The Skookumchuck are the largest tidal rapids in the world. When the tides change in the narrows, the rapids at high tide form some of the most intoxicating waves, luring in surfers and kayakers to experience the adrenalin rush of a nearly motionless ride on the crest of some amazing waves. You better be very experienced and then some.
   The water is hypothermic cold. I’ve seen the suction of whirlpools in the area pull under a 3 ft. diameter tree seeking its freedom having escaped a good lashing to a log raft. You don’t see much evidence of logging in the parks, but up one or two of the fjords by Zodiak. I’ve seen the timber companies ruthlessly slaughtering ancient old growth forest by helicoptor clinging to impossibly steep hillsides. Their destiny? Lumber to toilet paper. Yes, out of sight, out of mind, not garnishing much attention as not many witnesses to the clear cutting.  
Vancouver Island
From Powell River we crossed over to Vancouver Island. We traveled the inside route along the Strait of Georgia, offering a much calmer sea than the outside of Vancouver Island. On the Tofino side, for example, the weather arrives directly from Japan. The open sea swells slam the coastline creating magnificent several stories high on even a calm day. Again with the Zodiac and its 25hp motor I’ve explored many island groupings sprinkled off the shore on the outside of Vancouver Island.
   In some places, like the Nootka Sound area, you need to cross 5 km of open sea. There you witness the full force of the swells crashing on the shoreline cliffs. There are no white caps on a calm day. You ride the longish swells where you sometimes disappear below its rim, then rise up above the sea, on the next one. In 20 minutes you are behind the safety of other islands where the sea is more tranquil. 
Camping in these areas where the tides are 25 ft or more, you might wake up with the Zodiac dangling off a huge rock. I put wheels on the back in order to roll the boat over sharp rocks and the knife like shells of osyters a plenty. One time I woke up to the sound of a huge black bear turning over boulders along the shore line looking for edibles. Another time I awoke to a small pack of howling wolves that had crossed from the mainland to the island where I was camping at low tide. I think they were as startled as I was and soon disappeared into the trees.
To experience a night sky, full of unimaginable stars while a stone to the water would bring a matching symphony of phosphorous light might help explain why one would choose to venture off the beaten track.
North of Victoria
We landed by ferry on Vancouver Island at Comox, a short hop from Powell River. If you turn right in Comox, you can visit Campell River about an hour away. From there you can head inland to Gold River. Gold River area is where you can put in a boat in the Inlet or Fjord to visit Nootka Sound by water. There are only poorly maintained dirt roads so be prepared to travel cautiously and with a full tank of gas.
  
We decided this trip to turn left toward Qualicum Beach and Parksville, also about an hour away but in the direction of Victoria. The beaches in this area are popular with bathers, kayakers, and stand up paddle boarders. The tidal area is relatively shallow and the waters get warmer as they are not so deep. It’s a gorgeous area and both places have seaside boardwalks, offering amazing sunsets and vistas of the mountainous Sunshine coast. Their the hills are layered in clouds and mist which adds mystery and calm to those who take time to notice.
During the summer in Parksville, there are activities such as a weekly street fair, a badmitton tournament, and an international sandcastle competition. We highly recommend this area for several days.
    It is an easy day trip to walk the ancient forests of Cathedral Grove around Port Alberni, a charming town offering ferry boat trips down the Alberni inlet passing through the Broken Island Group. These islands, located in Barkley Sound, are gorgeous. The ferry offers freight and passenger service to remote villages along the way. The Broken Islands are small, uninhabited, and well protected, making them perfect for kayaks and camping.       
Half way to Port Albeni from Parksville are some waterfalls and hiking trails through old growth forest. Of course one must also stop along the way to see the goats that pasture on top of an old general store.
Down the road from Parksville is Nanaimo. It’s a major ferry connection point to the mainland for islanders, but the city also has its charm. You can’t help but enjoy a stroll through the historical section with its renovated architecture.
         Intermingled in the district are several ethnic restaurants, coffee houses, and boutiques. From there you can walk to the waterfront harbor where a seaside boardwalk of several kilometers has been constructed connecting various parks and moorages overlooking the strait. There are also several islands out in front that can be reach by sea taxi, adding to the charm and serenity of this peaceful port.
Victoria-The Crown Jewel
Victoria is an engaging town situated on water and full of history and renovated buildings. It is the capital of British Columbia. The Parliament Building sits near the Empress Hotel and the gateway to the historic section.
   
The local community is friendly and inviting. People would take time to answer our questions and showed genuine interest in us, setting the tone for some lasting memories.
    While we were there we danced tango at a local milonga, Café Casablanca. It’s a charming space and the dance community was warm and friendly. We were invited to a Sunday milonguita at a private home that was a definite highlight of our 4 days in Victoria. The day was perfect providing us with a sunny day, an excellent DJ, new friends, and an excellent, local bandoneon player that we’d heard in Buenos Aires.    
Our timing was good for visiting Victoria. We got to watch some impressive Dragon Boat Races. The crews, many only comprised of women, oar to the beat of the drummer. In unison their oars enter the water and simultaneously pull, driving the boat forward. It’s an orchestrated performance of skill and cooperation, with 20 paddlers, another steering, and the drummer at the bow. He visually connects with the crew, and like a conductor, setts the tone and pace as he might in a symphony.
   
One of the highlights of Victoria was the discovery of the Galloping Goose Trail System. We could connect with it directly below our hotel. It wanders along the waterway, a bike and pedestrian path that is over 20 miles long. It is a recycled railroad track system. Along the path are many access points that allow one to explore many different neighborhoods including the historic district. It offers vantage points of the cityscape that are breathtaking. We also liked the trail access to restaurants and stores along the way without the need for a car.
       
We left Victoria and Vancouver Island via ferry through the Canadian San Juans. From there we headed for the US Border about 40 minutes away from the ferry landing. We changed money again at a small town by the border for the best rate, crossed the US border. This time Sara presented her Argentine passport with her 10 year American visa. From there we breezed down the highway to La Connor for a delicious fish lunch anda stroll along the new waterfront boardwalk that ribbons village shops and a moorage facilities.
    
Close by is the town of Anacortes. We spent the night and enjoyed walking through the historical downtown, full of murals. Anacortes is also a major gateway to the American San Juan Islands by ferry or boat.
 
To reach Whidbey Island you need to cross the impressive bridge over Deception Pass. The waters below are treacherous and only the highly experienced should attempt to motor through it. Sailing the Pass is not an option.
 
On Whidbey Island, you’ll find several small fishing communities, like the charming village of Oak Harbor. It lies off the main road heading to the ferry terminal offering access to Port Townsend on the Olympic Peninsula. Another detour took us to Coupeville located in a picturesque setting over the water. Each town has its own special flavor. It would be easy to stay a day or two in any of them.
       
Olympic Peninsula
Port Townsend sits on a bluff overlooking the sea. It is full of Victorian homes and historic buildings from the early 1900’s. The main street has many charming restaurants and coffee houses. Port Townsend provides a connection point to Whidbey Island and Anacortes without having to travel the long way through the heavy Seattle traffic. All the islands have a lazy, rural presence with many organic small farms providing food for people who choose to live off the grid. You can’t help but be taken in by the meditative aura that greets all who pass through.
  
Next Time
We left Port Townsend and headed for Olympia and Portland. We had an amazing trip through the islands of NW Canada and the USA. We will return and next time perhaps with the zodiac so that we can more fully experience one the last remaining wilderness environments in the NW. The towns we visited are the jumping off points. Their docks are the supply source for basic goods and services. Behind their moorages lie undeveloped territory and a primitive existence for those who choose the solidary road less traveled.
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